salmaland.com » BK:Heights/Carroll/Cobbl

Brooklyn/Carroll Gardens: Frankies 457 Spuntino

Fri, 22 Oct 2010 14:29:20 +0000

The two Franks (co-owners Falcinelli and Castronovo) have been gradually turning their modest Court Street Italian restaurant into a mini-empire ever since it opened in 2004: Now, besides this original Frankies location, there’s also Frankies 17 on Clinton Street in Manhattan, the retro-German Prime Meats, and two Cafe Pedlar coffee shops, one on each side of the river. But this, their first foray, still does what it’s always done consistently and well: happiness-inducing Sicilian (from red-sauce pastas like gnocchi marinara with fresh ricotta to seasonal dishes like linguini with fava beans, garlic, and tomato), all in the kind of warm, clamorous room you never want to leave.

Frankies 457 Spuntino: 457 Court St. between Luquer St. and 4th Pl., Carroll Gardens; (718) 403-0033. Frankies 17: 17 Clinton St. between Houston and Stanton Sts; (212) 253-2303.

Prices/Features: Moderately Priced/Vegetarian-Friendly

Brooklyn/Brooklyn Heights: Henry Public

Tue, 29 Sep 2009 14:35:20 +0000

Photo by Daniel Krieger/Eater

There’s something endearing about a menu that lists only one dessert. At the new, antiques-filled Brooklyn Heights pub Henry Public, that dessert pulls its weight, and more: It’s a plate of six Wilkinsons (“what are those?” you’ll ask the waiter, on cue). These turn out to be hot, puffy spheres similar to beignets, but doughier and more flavorful. Dip them into the caramel sauce on the side and watch all six puffs magically disappear. But you’re probably here for the pub food and for the comfortably lived-in, 19th-century vibe, not the dessert really. So how’s the food? The grass-fed burgers “sandwiches” are oozingly delicious; the fries are hot, crisp, and salty. Next visit might call for the turkey-leg sandwich. Cocktails are exceptional too: The Public Smash, made with bourbon, bitters, mint, and maple syrup, is a smooth, strong, and just-sweet-enough potion. Fans will also want to hit the owners’ other atmospheric hangout, Brooklyn Social in Carroll Gardens.

Henry Public. 329 Henry St. between Pacific St. and Atlantic Ave.; 718-852-8630

Prices/Features: Moderately Priced/Drink Destination

Brooklyn/Cobble Hill: Char No. 4

Tue, 29 Sep 2009 14:34:51 +0000

Pic Courtesy of Char No.4

Just try coming to Char No. 4 for drinks only. While it’s tempting to sit at the bar and taste some of the 150-plus whiskeys (bourbon, rye, Tennessee mash, single-malt Scotch) lovingly arranged on the shelves, eventually the smell of house-smoked bacon will waft through the room and you’ll be jockeying for a table. Eating light is a challenge here—what with Southern-inflected choices like fried pork nuggets with hot sauce, or shrimp-and-grits—but at least the “snacks and appetizers” section keeps the portion sizes (and prices) compact.

Char No. 4. 196 Smith St., Brooklyn; (718) 643-2106.

Prices/Features: Moderately Priced/Drink Destination

Brooklyn/Brooklyn Heights: Bocca Lupo

Tue, 29 Sep 2009 14:33:01 +0000

If you’re walking along Henry Street to Lucali, you might consider bailing on your plans and stopping in at Bocca Lupo instead. You won’t find much pizza here—and certainly not the beautifully blistered, oozing Neapolitan pies Lucali does so well. Still, if Italian small-plates and poppingly fresh-tasting cocktails will do the trick tonight—and you’re not in the mood for a long Lucali line and the generally tedious New York-in-2009-ness of it all—do yourself a favor and pull into Bocca Lupo. The short list of entrees changes daily (you might find asparagus risotto; bucatini with pork sausage; and an arugula-and-Iberico-ham pizza one night), and there’s always a slew of terrific panini and tramezzini sandwiches and bruschettas to kill anything from a hunger pang to an intense Italian jones. The fruity-sounding house cocktails like the blueberry mojito might be a little embarrassing to order, but do it anyway.

Bocca Lupo. 391 Henry St. at Warren St., Brooklyn Heights; (718) 243-2522.

Prices/Features: Cheap/Vegetarian-Friendly/Drink Destination