 If you haven’t figured out where to eat tonight but are circling around the idea of a cozy/Italian/inexpensive/crowd-pleaser/West Village sort of place, head to the triangle formed roughly by Greenwich Ave., Eighth Ave., and West 11th. Where exactly? You could start with Dell’Anima, where [...]  Catch Il Buco on the right night, and it’s as close to a bull’s eye as you’ll get in NYC dining. Of course, saying that any restaurant hits the bull’s-eye is asking for trouble. No, Bond Street’s stalwart Italian restaurant Il Buco isn’t perfect—meaning you’re not going to have flawless food every single time you go, and your server won’t always win your undying love, and on busy nights you might even have to wait a tad bit past the point where you’re ready to walk. But very few other restaurants (in the neighborhood, in America, in existence) nail so brilliantly [...]  Is there a secret underground tunnel between Fort Greene and Williamsburg? (Besides the horrible G train, aka Ghost Train)? How else to explain the influx of Williamsburg restaurants into the neighborhood? No one is complaining so far though, especially as long as Fort Greene doesn’t actually turn into Williamsburg; one is enough, non? Cutting to the chase: Walter’s is the latest Wburg outpost to open along DeKalb Avenue, and yes, it’s helping to ratchet up the food scene here, at long last. [...]  The once restaurant-starved Fort Greene got a little piece of the action when Roman’s opened—serving not just scenesters loyal to the owners’ Williamsburg holdings (Diner, Marlow & Sons, et al) but mainly neighborhood locals who just want excellent food in a fun room, full stop. The short, constantly changing menu of beautifully rendered rustic Italian dishes makes it hard to choose [...]  Not that they need more attention, but the guys behind Torrisi have opened this second modest (modest-ish) little Italian-American joint—which is predictably packed nearly all the time. Parm is excellent though—the kind of casual, hearty, filling, cheap-ish food you crave nearly all the time—and so deserves the crowds. [...]  The NYC pizza wars continue. I have to say, there was a time—namely during a week in Naples some years back—when I became convinced that New York does pizza better than the Italian city’s lauded piemakers. But funny thing is, lately the more a pizza reminds me of those bubbly-soft, tomato-sopping, basily Naples pies, the more I love it. Hence Forcella’s inclusion on Salmaland. [...]  Momofuku empire owner David Chang’s deceptively simple reworking of the pork bun, a Chinatown staple (which he makes with oozingly juicy slabs of pork belly topped with cucumber strips on a doughy bun, to be drizzled with Sriracha) helped speed his rise to glory, and [...]  Flying mostly under the radar—except among West Villagers and in-the-know Italian-restaurant obsessives—I Sodi is endlessly pleasing: from the compact, tunnel-like room, to the warm and on-the-ball staff, to the reliably fantastic Tuscan cooking. [...]  Platonic ideal of the West Village restaurant, right around now: Small and cluttered with vintage-looking furniture; well-executed but willfully un-fancy food; maybe some charcuterie and oysters; strong drinks; non-bludgeoning prices. This is more or less what you’ll find at Joseph Leonard [...]  It took me a while to warm up to DBGB’s room: It can feel a bit cavernous and cold. But once you start in on chef Daniel Boulud’s reengineered burgers and sausages and assorted versions of bistro/American greatest hits—and get absorbed in all the celeb-chef-donated copper cookware lining the walls—suddenly all is warm and luscious and [...] |
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