 Platonic ideal of the West Village restaurant, circa 2010: Small and cluttered with vintage-looking furniture; a menu of cheffed-up peasant food; charcuterie and oysters; strong drinks; non-bludgeoning prices. This is more or less what you’ll find at Joseph Leonard [...]  Once you figure out which door to walk into—the Standard Hotel and its various lobbies and lounges seem to have about 17 entry points—you’re in for a meal that, however close it comes to sating your food desires, should at least temporarily calm your “Is New York still the center of the universe?” worries. The Standard Grill pulses with a certain be-here-nowness [...]  It took me a while to warm up to DBGB’s room: It can feel a bit cavernous and cold. But once you start in on chef Daniel Boulud’s reengineered burgers and sausages and assorted versions of bistro/American greatest hits—and get absorbed in all the celebrity-chef-donated copper cookware lining the walls—suddenly all is warm and luscious and [...]  Sometimes the only thing that will do is a griddled Venezuelan corn cake smeared with salty white cheese, or with sweet plantains and avocado, or with grilled chorizo and jalapenos. These aren’t those flabby street-fest arepas. At Caracas Arepa Bar, they’re expertly [...]  A pizza and a glass of wine at Lil’ Frankie’s bar is the definition of low-maintenance East Village dining, if “dining” is the right word for this kind of easy, visceral wish fulfillment. The pizzas here aren’t making grand claims to Neapolitan authenticity or oldest-coal-oven-in-New-York or whatever, but they’re satisfyingly bubbling, charred pies with substance and style and [...]  The marbly travertine walls facing the street look bizarrely out of place on Kenmare—somehow the former Little Charlie’s Clam Bar seemed to blend right in—but walk into Travertine and you’re instantly in a softly lit, glam little nook. Banquettes are [...]  A fantasy shop for Spanish-food fetishists, Despaña now has some tables in back where you can gorge privately on the Basque tapas laid out marvelously on the counter. Some of my favorites here are the Flautas Castañas,small sandwiches of salchicon sausage, goat cheese, and [...]  It’s refreshing and rare when a burger lives up to the hype, and the Classic at Bill’s Bar and Burger actually does. Even before it opened in October, Bill’s was [...]  If you haven’t figured out where to eat tonight but are circling around the idea of a cozy/Italian/inexpensive/crowd-pleaser/West Village sort of place, head to the triangle formed roughly by Greenwich Ave., Eighth Ave., and West 11th. Where exactly? You could start with Dell’Anima, where [...]  It always seems ridiculous to name any burger NYC’s best; there are way too many variables, plus those silly awards have a way of ruining the things they celebrate (too much demand is the road to sloppiness). But it’s safe to say Market Table has one of the city’s best, an ingeniously executed burger made [...] |
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