Once you figure out which door to walk into—the Standard Hotel and its various lobbies and lounges seem to have about 17 entry points—you’re in for a meal that, however close it comes to sating your food desires, should at least temporarily calm your “Is New York still the center of the universe?” worries. The Standard Grill pulses with a certain be-here-nowness, though the service (and sometimes the food) can waver. Yes, the restaurant is in the Meatpacking District, but the blocks immediately surrounding it still cling to pre-recession glam (relive it for a sec) and the Highline is a few steps away. On ex-Lever House chef Dan Silverman’s menu: Basque lobster stew, a Pat LaFrieda ribeye for two (it’s all about the label, dahling), and the requisite oysters and patés.
The Standard Grill. 848 Washington St. at W. 13th St.; (212) 645-4100.
Prices/Features: MOD, VEG, GRP, DRK (See Welcome to Salmaland for key to letter abbreviations.)