Pic courtesy of 11870.com
The city is packed with sushi joints (although very few outstanding ones) but there still aren’t enough restaurants doing what chef Sotohiro Kasugi does at Soto: Gorgeous, deceptively simple, crudo-like spins on raw seafood. His preparations have a few more bells and whistles than Japanese-style sushi and sashimi, but he knows how to let the distinct, ocean-fresh fish flavors shine through. See what he does with Long Island fluke (brushes it with lime juice, sea salt, and yuzu zest) or sea urchin (wraps it in thinly sliced squid and a shiso leaf and tops it with quail egg). Sit at the counter for a slightly livelier experience than the all-white, hushed dining room has to offer. But no matter where you sit, you’ll be glad you stumbled into this seriously classy restaurant on an otherwise soulless stretch of Sixth Ave.
Soto. 357 Sixth Ave. between W. 4th St. and Washington Pl.; (212) 414-3088.
Prices/Features: MOD, VGT (See Welcome to Salmaland for key to letter abbreviations.)